gun camo

[redskin]

other than a cover whats the bestway to camo your gun

[yellowpumpguy]

Good ol' can of spray paint.

[EmpireLover]

Paint I guess. Thats the only thing I can think of. Actually camo paint isnt that good. Covering it is probably the best way.

[Doorman]

Home done camo with spray paint. Three years + and no flaking or chipping.
http://home.comcast.net/~garinham/dman_marker.jpg

[F.T. Phantom]

I was always partial to clothe camo tape when I bothered to use camo. I took the lazy mans way out and buy all black or green equipment now.

You can't beat a good paint job for a home made camo finish. Emphasis on good.

[redskin]

Originally posted by Doorman@Jun 12 2005, 10:02 PM
Home done camo with spray paint. Three years + and no flaking or chipping.
http://home.comcast.net/~garinham/dman_marker.jpg
18553

Nice lookin camo job did ya sand your marker down first

[Doorman]

Not completely to entirely bare aluminum, but about 70% or so of the anodizing was removed.

[recklesspaintballer21]

u should glue sticks and leaves jk
paint it

[steveo]

Originally posted by Doorman@Jun 13 2005, 12:02 AM
Home done camo with spray paint. Three years + and no flaking or chipping.
http://home.comcast.net/~garinham/dman_marker.jpg
18553

did you sand down your gun first because i didnt and painted my gun and its chipping and flaking

[Doorman]

It's a time consuming process to do it right, but once done it lasts for years. Sanding it is only part of the prep work, washing, degreasing, etc are all parts of the prep as well. Then application of the paint in thin coats, allowing complete drying in between coats. Finally baking the pieces to set the paint completely.

From start to finish it takes about a full week if you want it to come out right.

[Adam Zawistowski]

wow, a wholleeeeeeee week. id mess up pratty bad and my gun would fall apart or bake to death, haha, i kant do things that require that much skill B) pce

[yellowpumpguy]

A week? Dang, I could make enough money in a week to go out and buy a camo annodized Phantom. That's cool though, you did a really good job on it. It's a project thing. I know how that goes, look at my Mil Sim Trracer that's been many weeks and many more to come LOL.

[Doorman]

I'm talking accumulated time. In actuallity you are only working on the marker for about 5 total hours..... the rest of the time is dry times, etc.

I'll give you a step by step if you want one, that way you can judge how difficult it is on your own.

[ShadowStrike]

Originally posted by Doorman@Jun 24 2005, 01:15 PM
I'm talking accumulated time. In actuallity you are only working on the marker for about 5 total hours..... the rest of the time is dry times, etc.

I'll give you a step by step if you want one, that way you can judge how difficult it is on your own.
27292

That'd be cool.. ;)

[Doorman]

Okay, here ya go:Marker Prep. Disassemble the marker completely and remove all o-rings/rubber components/electrical components/plastic components.
Wash in hot soapy water to remove any grease/oil.
Rough sand with 80-100 grit sandpaper. You aren't looking to remove all the anodizing, just exposing enough bare aluminum to allow a good bond.
Wear rubber dishwashing gloves or latex gloves from now on every time you handle the marker. These will keep oils from interfering with the paint bond!
Wash thoroughly again in hot soapy water and follow that with a washing in a degreaser (automotive section of your local mega-store).
Stuff the insides of the marker with paper towel. You don't want any paint on the inside of the marker. Since you will be using light coats, you don't have to worry about the paper towel wicking the the paint in.
Painting Place all the individual pieces you are going to paint out on a good flat surface in the sunshine. Allow the pieces to sit about an hour in direct sun to let them warm.
Spray the base color in a light coat. Don't worry if it doesn't cover in one coat, you just don't want any runs or puddles.
Allow this side to dry completely in the sun (an hour or so), then flip and repeat.
Perform the above steps a few times during the day (depending on how much strong daylight you have left.
Select a good base color for your area. If you play in heavily wooded areas then a darker green will be good, if you play in lightly wooded areas you would want a lighter green, and if you play in desert styled areas a kakhi color is a good base.
In between each coat you will want to lightly sand it with 100 grit sand paper just to rough it a little. You can also use steel wool for this (NOT S.O.S. pads though as they contain soap!).
About 5-8 coats will be needed of just the base color to build up enough to cover all of the exposed metal you want painted. This is going to be your building base, so take your time getting this far!.
Remember to let the pieces warm up for an hour or so before proceeding with the next coat. This will drive off all moisture left in the paint or condensed on the metal.
Camoflauging You can either use a template or freehand this portion.
Assemble the marker without the internals. Make sure everything that can be seen from the outside is exposed as it would be during a game.
Alternate two to four basic colors most often found in your area and the season you play in. Dark colors should dominate high spots like corners or edges to create shadows, lighter colors are used to break the outline.
Do NOT allow these paints to run. You are trying to get continuity in the coloration, but you don't want to cover the base color... just to break up the solidness of it.
You want to ensure the edges of each pattern are not solid, the more difuse they are the better it will turn out.
Allow this to completely dry in the sunshine (about two more hours or so).
Setting the paint (perform this step the day after your last paint application for safety reasons). Disassemble the marker again, set any plastic/rubber/electrical pieces off to the side, these are completed as much as possible.
Take an oven rack and cover with aluminum foil, dull side out.
Place the marker pieces on the rack and put it in the upper portion of the oven.
Set the oven to Bake at 180-200ºF. If you have a gas oven you are going to have to keep the door slightly cracked and place the pieces on the absolute top rack. This will eliminate any moisture from the combustion process interfering with the paint.
Keep an eye on the marker at all times during this process. It is going to stink a little, but it won't catch fire.
Bake for 2-2.5 hours at this temp. You can turn the pieces over halfway through the process but it isn't needed.
Let it cool completely, lubricate it up and assemble it.

Failure to follow any of the prep, painting, or setting instructions will result in the paint not bonding with the aluminum or attaching under some of the broken anodized cells.... in other words, it's gonna chip and flake on ya!

[steveo]

did you prime it? and will baking it in a everyday use oven make it smell real bad?

[WindMill]

just go out and buy a roll of camo duct tape for like 5 bucks

[Doorman]

No, I didn't use any specific primers for it. The rough surface of broken anodized cells and the scratching of the aluminum works to hold everything very nicely.

Baking it won't make anything smell, your oven will still be able to be used for cooking, etc. It will smell up the house a little as the paint warms and cures, but it won't be overwhelming, especially if you open a window or turn on the fan.

[SSDDismymotto]

this is an airsoft gun but you get the picture
did this with camo paint from cheaperthandirt.com

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/AlphaFireteamLeader/gunpics001.jpg

[1gage1]

nice camo :lol:

[groundzero67]

I used tape and it looks nice up close and all, but I'm thinkin of paintin it

[Lord Snipa]

I make fake gun/ mask/ back covering ghillies. Its pretty simple and practical, but it is efficient enough.

1) take duct tape. Make long strands (the length varies on what you plan to cover) and put one strand on top of another. You should get two strands of duct tape with the sticky side facing up. for the next strand, put it underneath the piece you just attched. If you keep putting them on top of each other. It will slant, and be more likely to give away your position, and be more awkward to use.

2) Once you have a duct tape "cape" ready, go throw it on the floor where you would be playing. Be sure to add some dead leaves, tree branches, bush leaves etc.

3) a. If you are using your new artificial ghillie for your gun, it is best to cut a hole where the hopper has to get through, and make a rounded cone shaped duct tape thingy so you can cover your hopper. Be sure to cut a hole where you would have to empty your pods into your hopper.

b. If you are using it for your back, just pullit over and camp. Since you are eventually going to have to move, so it is best to attatch a piece of string or twine around the neck, so you can kind of wear it. Or you could ditch it and pick it up after the match.

c. if it is for your mask, its best to fit it exactly to your mask so it wont obstruct your vision. You would also want to attatch it directy to your mask.

4)Camp and light people up. One shot One kill

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~NOTES~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~

You are also probably going to want to pick up a can of Elmer's spray on adhesive at your local hardware store. Apply this to the sticky side of the "cape" so the stuff sticks better and longer.

Dont try to make it work for two different courses. You would be amazed at how many different trees/ bushes there are from field to field. You will look like a hybrid bush, and stick out really badly.

Congratulations, you just created your own ghillie and saved about $140.

[Lord Snipa]

PS

Make the ghillie pieces the day before the trip.

It is also a good idea to only cover the parts that the enemy will see when your camping